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	<title>Pre-Approval &#8211; WeVett</title>
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	<title>Pre-Approval &#8211; WeVett</title>
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		<title>How Much House You Can Buy vs How Much You Can Afford</title>
		<link>https://wevett.com/videos/how-much-house-you-can-buy-vs-how-much-you-can-afford/</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[matt]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Dec 2024 16:20:17 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Videos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[affordability]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://wevett.com/?post_type=videos&#038;p=17410</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Just because you can technically buy it, does not mean you can actually afford it. Here, Evan breaks down how to tell the difference. ]]></description>
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									<p>This video comes off the heels of another one I just did, where I mentioned:<a href="https://wevett.com/videos/pay-off-debt-to-get-a-mortgage/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><em> &#8220;Hey, pay off debt to get more debt.&#8221;</em></a> Now, we’re going to talk about <strong>how much you should actually pay for a home versus what you could pay for a home.</strong></p><h3><strong>What You Can Afford vs. What You Should Pay</strong></h3><p>Often, when working on loan applications, I like to tell folks:</p><ul><li>There’s the amount you can be qualified for, and</li><li>There’s the amount you might actually want to pay.</li></ul><p>These are two very different worlds.</p><p>In the last video, and in a few others you’ll see on our site, we discussed the <strong>debt-to-income ratio (DTI)</strong> and how it really impacts what you can afford on a home—assuming everything else in the mortgage application is relatively clear.</p><p>The DTI is a key metric lenders look at, essentially saying, <strong>&#8220;How much of your income is going toward debt payments?&#8221;</strong></p><h3><strong>High DTI Ratios: A Red Flag for Your Budget</strong></h3><p>Here’s a shocker: For mortgages, DTI ratios are often pushed up to <strong>50%</strong>, and sometimes even higher for certain loan types, like VA loans. But that’s not always ideal. Why?</p><p>If half of your income is going toward maintaining debt, it’s not the best metric for long-term success in your personal budget.</p><p>This brings me to an important point: Just because we tell you that you can afford it <strong>doesn’t mean you should pay for it</strong> month by month.</p><h3><strong>A Real-World Example</strong></h3><p>Let’s take an example:</p><p>You’re making <strong>$6,000 a month</strong> and have a <strong>50% DTI ratio</strong>.</p><ul><li>This means <strong>$3,000 a month</strong> is going toward debt.</li><li>That leaves you with $3,000 for all other expenses.</li></ul><p>However, that 50% DTI is based on <strong>pre-tax income</strong>. So, that $6,000 gross income might actually be <strong>$5,000</strong> or even <strong>$4,500</strong> after taxes, depending on where you live.</p><p>Now imagine you have a <strong>$3,000 monthly mortgage payment</strong>. With only $4,500–$5,000 in take-home pay, you’re left with very little for other living expenses. If you’re trying to save or compound your finances, this situation gets tough quickly.</p><h3><strong>What’s the Ideal DTI Ratio?</strong></h3><p>The lowest DTI ratio is, of course, the best. If you’re trying to build wealth, save, and invest, lower is always better.</p><p>What’s a good target?</p><ul><li>Ideally, aim for <strong>35% or less</strong>.</li><li>Around 35% is where I’ve seen many folks succeed in saving, investing, and managing a mortgage that fits their lifestyle.</li></ul><p>If your DTI is higher (e.g., <strong>40–50%</strong>), especially with certain loan types like VA loans, it’s worth re-evaluating your situation.</p><h3><strong>Nuances in DTI Ratios</strong></h3><p>There are always nuances to consider. For example:</p><ul><li>If someone has a <strong>high DTI ratio (e.g., 60–70%)</strong>, it might be because they’ve left a spouse off the loan application. In most states, you don’t have to count one spouse’s debts against the other.</li><li>This can make the DTI look higher on paper, but the <strong>household’s overall financial situation</strong> might still be reasonable.</li></ul><p>That said, when factoring in <strong>all debts, including your new mortgage</strong>, it’s best to keep the DTI around <strong>35% or less</strong> to ensure long-term financial stability.</p><h3><strong>Final Thoughts: Do a Budget First</strong></h3><p>Before buying a home, <strong>make sure you do a budget</strong>.</p><ul><li>Get a clear idea of what’s comfortable for you.</li><li>If you have high fixed monthly costs (e.g., unique expenses), factor those in.</li></ul><p>At the end of the day, buying a home should be a <strong>blessing, not a curse</strong>. If you’re underwater on your mortgage, it’s not going to feel like an enjoyable experience.</p><p>Remember, just because you can afford a certain number doesn’t mean you should go for it. Think about what’s sustainable for your lifestyle.</p><p><strong>My name’s Evan Kaufman, your VA loan originator. Take care!</strong></p>								</div>
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		<title>Pay Off Debt to Get a Mortgage</title>
		<link>https://wevett.com/videos/pay-off-debt-to-get-a-mortgage/</link>
					<comments>https://wevett.com/videos/pay-off-debt-to-get-a-mortgage/#respond</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[matt]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Dec 2024 16:12:04 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Videos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[debt management]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://wevett.com/?post_type=videos&#038;p=17403</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[One way to get approved for a mortgage is to pay off some of your current debts and lower your debt to income ratio.]]></description>
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									<h2><strong>Today, we’re talking about how paying off debt can help you get more debt—oddly enough.</strong></h2><p>My name is Evan Kaufman, your VA loan originator. One way to get a larger mortgage or to be approved for a larger balance is to actually pay off some of your current debts. In this video, we’re going to talk about why that is, and at the end, I’ll go over a real example of how impactful it can actually be.</p><h3><strong>Why Paying Off Debt Can Help You Get More Debt</strong></h3><p>So, why is it that if I pay off some debts, I can suddenly be approved for more debts? It comes back to your <strong>debt-to-income ratio (DTI)</strong>. As lenders, this is one of the primary indicators we use to determine whether you qualify for a home loan.</p><p>For example, if we’re looking at conventional loans (and most loan types), your debt-to-income ratio typically needs to be <strong>50% or less</strong>. For VA loans, the requirements can be more nuanced. Sometimes, they allow a higher ratio, but it’s often based on something called <strong>residual income</strong>. Still, we need to ensure the DTI makes sense.</p><h3><strong>What Is the Debt-to-Income Ratio?</strong></h3><p>In general, the DTI is calculated by taking your <strong>total monthly liabilities</strong> and dividing that by your <strong>total monthly income</strong>, which gives us a percentage.</p><ul><li><strong>Monthly liabilities</strong>: These include major debts, such as installment loans or revolving credit lines (e.g., student loans, car payments, or credit card balances with minimum payments).</li><li>Things like utilities, rent, and phone bills typically <strong>don’t count</strong> in this calculation.</li></ul><p>When we run your credit, we focus on things like installment loans, car loans, student loans, and other mortgages you might have. These are added up to get your <strong>total debt number</strong>. We then divide this by your <strong>gross (pre-tax) monthly income</strong> to calculate your DTI.</p><h3><strong>A Real-Life Example</strong></h3><p>Let’s say you’re currently denied for a mortgage because your DTI is too high. You’ve been told to pay off some debts but don’t know why or how impactful it can be. Here’s an example:</p><p>You make <strong>$5,000 a month</strong> in gross income. You have <strong>$2,000 a month</strong> in car payments and credit card debt, and you’re trying to apply for a mortgage with a <strong>$2,000 monthly payment</strong>.</p><ul><li>Without the mortgage, your DTI is <strong>$2,000 ÷ $5,000 = 40%</strong>.</li><li>Add the mortgage, and now your total liabilities are <strong>$4,000 a month</strong>. Divide that by your income, and your DTI jumps to <strong>80%</strong>.</li></ul><p>This 80% ratio exceeds most loan requirements, meaning you’ll likely be denied. But here’s the power of paying off debt:</p><p>Let’s say you can pay off that <strong>$2,000 in credit cards and car loans</strong>. Now your only liability is the mortgage, so your DTI goes back down to <strong>40%</strong>. With other factors in place, you’re much more likely to be approved.</p><h3><strong>Another Example</strong></h3><p>Here’s a more common scenario:</p><p>You make <strong>$5,000 a month</strong> in income and have <strong>$1,500 in debt</strong> (split between car payments and credit cards). Without a mortgage, your DTI is <strong>30%</strong>.</p><p>If you take on a mortgage with a <strong>$2,000 monthly payment</strong>, your DTI increases to <strong>70%</strong>. To improve your chances of approval, you decide to pay off some of the debt:</p><ul><li>You can’t pay off your car loan entirely but manage to clear <strong>$1,000 in credit card debt</strong>.</li><li>This leaves you with <strong>$500 in liabilities</strong>, plus the <strong>$2,000 mortgage</strong>.</li></ul><p>Your new DTI is <strong>$2,500 ÷ $5,000 = 50%</strong>, which has a much better chance of approval. While I wouldn’t recommend a 50% DTI long-term (ideally, aim for <strong>35% or less</strong>), this shows how debt payments can help you qualify.</p><p>By paying off certain debts, you can reduce your DTI and potentially qualify for a larger mortgage. This could allow you to afford a home in the area you want to live in or one that meets your needs better.</p><p>For example, if paying off a <strong>$300–$500 monthly debt</strong> lowers your DTI by 10–15%, that could allow you to qualify for <strong>$50,000–$100,000 more in home value</strong>.</p><p><strong>My name is Evan Kaufman</strong>, and that’s how strategically paying off debts can help improve your DTI to qualify for a mortgage and, ultimately, secure a new home.</p>								</div>
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		<title>How to Calculate Your Debt to Income Ratio</title>
		<link>https://wevett.com/videos/how-to-calculate-your-debt-to-income-ratio/</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[matt]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 30 Aug 2024 20:29:13 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Videos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dti]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://wevett.com/?post_type=videos&#038;p=15811</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Learn the simple process of how to calculate your debt to income ratio. ]]></description>
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									<p>Why does no one talk about what a good debt-to-income ratio is when buying a home?</p><p>My name is Evan Kaufman, your VA loan originator, here to help explore the topic.</p><p>So, we have two things we&#8217;re going to go over:</p><ol><li>How do you actually calculate your debt-to-income ratio?</li><li>What is considered a good debt-to-income ratio? I&#8217;ll also give you some of my experiences on it.</li></ol><p> </p><h3>First off, how to calculate your debt-to-income ratio.</h3><p>Some people assume there&#8217;s this long, complicated equation, or that the lender just tells you a random percentage and says whether you&#8217;re denied or accepted for a loan.</p><p>But it&#8217;s actually very simple.</p><p>I&#8217;ve made a nice little chart for us here, so I want you to check this out.</p><p>DTI, or debt-to-income ratio, simply means <strong>your total monthly debts divided by your total monthly income. </strong></p><p>When we say <em>&#8220;total monthly debts,&#8221;</em> some people refer to it as <em>&#8220;total monthly liabilities.&#8221;</em></p><p>This typically includes major installment loans, car loans, student loans, and revolving credit card debt (like a balance with a minimum payment).</p><p>You add all those up and then divide by your total monthly income.</p><p>That total monthly income is your pre-tax income from all sources. This could be a W-2 job, a business, etc.</p><p>You add that up, divide it to find out your income, and then divide those debts by that income.</p><p>For example, let&#8217;s say you have $2,500 a month in total debts. For mortgage qualification, this also includes what your future mortgage payment could be.</p><p>So, this would be your total monthly debts (e.g., student loans, car loans, credit cards, etc.) plus your anticipated mortgage debt, divided by your income.</p><p>Now, remember, we&#8217;re going to discuss what we think a good ratio is in a second.</p><p>But in this example, let&#8217;s say you have no debt at all, but your future housing payment is going to be around $2,500.</p><p>Let&#8217;s also say your pre-tax income is $5,000.</p><p>Then, your DTI would simply be $2,500 divided by $5,000, or 50%.</p><p>Another good example: Let&#8217;s say you have $3,500 in monthly debt.</p><p>You might think it&#8217;s worse because it&#8217;s higher than the previous example, right?</p><p>Well, not necessarily.</p><p>If your income is higher, let&#8217;s say your total income for the application is $10,000 (this could be individual or as a household, for example).</p><p>So, let&#8217;s say it&#8217;s you and your spouse on the application.</p><p>That total income of $10,000 means $3,500 divided by $10,000 gives you a DTI of 35%, which is actually lower, even though it&#8217;s a higher monthly debt.</p><p>Simply put, DTI is just your total monthly debts divided by your total monthly income.</p><p>For those debts, it&#8217;s not necessarily all debts out there; it&#8217;s mainly those we call installment debts or revolving credit debts.</p><p>Your cell phone bill, utilities, etc., typically aren&#8217;t going to count, so don&#8217;t worry about those.</p><p>That&#8217;s where working with your lender is important. Ideally, for our sake, we&#8217;re working with you to help understand what that number is.</p><h3>Now, what is a good debt-to-income ratio?</h3><p>In the examples I just gave, we had a 50% DTI and a 35% DTI. Here&#8217;s the thing: it&#8217;s a little arbitrary what is considered a good DTI for loan qualification.</p><p>There are some standards we see for conventional loans, VA loans (which we deal with a lot), and FHA loans.</p><p>Typically, for conventional loans, you usually can&#8217;t go much higher than that 50% mark—some may go slightly above, but not much.</p><p>For VA loans, we&#8217;ve seen folks with very high debt-to-income ratios because of how the VA loan is calculated.</p><p>Even though up front they say only a certain percentage is allowed, it&#8217;s calculated a bit differently using something called residual income, so it can go a lot higher.</p><p>But does that mean it&#8217;s good?</p><p>Personally, I&#8217;d argue no.</p><p>I would say the folks typically in the best financial shape are keeping that debt-to-income ratio lower.</p><p>What range would we recommend?</p><p>Try to stick around that 35% range or lower, ideally even in the high 20s.</p><p>At 35%, we typically see folks have enough margin to ensure they can invest and do other things.</p><p>Now, everyone is different — budgets can vary drastically.</p><p>Or let&#8217;s say you&#8217;re qualifying for this loan and keeping your spouse off the loan. Your debt-to-income ratio could appear really high, but remember, we&#8217;re not adding in a whole person’s income.</p><p>That’s a whole other topic for discussion, but technically, you don&#8217;t need both people on a loan, and most states will let you do that without factoring in the other spouse.</p><p>So that means you could have a high DTI on paper, even though in reality it&#8217;s a lot lower.</p><p>That&#8217;s why it&#8217;s important to work with someone like myself and others to help understand where a safe DTI really is &#8211; including all income and debts in the household, not just what&#8217;s on the loan application.</p><p>I&#8217;d recommend keeping that DTI at 35% or under, if possible.</p><p>I hope that helps demystify what DTI is and what we see as good debt-to-income ratios.</p><p>Any questions? Reach out to me, Evan Kaufman, your VA loan originator. Take care!</p>								</div>
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		<title>How Long is My Pre-Approval Good For?</title>
		<link>https://wevett.com/videos/how-long-is-my-pre-approval-good-for/</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[matt]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 23 Feb 2024 14:56:02 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Videos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Popular]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pre-Approval]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://wevett.com/?post_type=videos&#038;p=10976</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Once you get a pre-approval letter, how long does it last before you need to refresh it?]]></description>
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									<p>How long is my pre-approval good for?</p><p>My name is Evan Kaufman, your VA originator here to help explain that nice letter that you get from us.</p><p>How long is that going to be good for when you&#8217;re going out to search for homes?</p><p>So, pre-approval in the first place: <a href="https://wevett.com/videos/pre-qualification-vs-pre-approval/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">difference between pre-approval and pre-qualification.</a></p><p>Pre-qualification is where you might have told us a lot of your information, so we said <em>hey, we are qualifying you based on what you&#8217;ve told us</em>.</p><p>Pre-approval means you&#8217;ve given us a lot of documents.</p><p>Typically, you&#8217;ll have provided, at that point, your pay stubs (or LES for military folks), bank statements if we&#8217;re needing to verify some funds, maybe your orders for if you&#8217;re moving, or new job letter.</p><p>We&#8217;ve collected those documents upfront and reviewed them. So, we&#8217;re pretty confident to say <em>hey, this loan&#8217;s going to be good to go, we&#8217;re pre-approving you</em>.</p><p><strong>So, </strong><strong>pre-qualification &#8211; based on what you&#8217;ve told us.</strong></p><p><strong>Pre-approval &#8211; based on what you&#8217;ve given us.</strong></p><p>But now you&#8217;ve given us all that stuff and we&#8217;ve issued you the pre-approval. A big part of that is that we&#8217;ve typically pulled your credit by that point, and so if we run your credit, that&#8217;s good for a certain window.</p><p>Now, our pre-approval letters are going to be <strong>generally good for 90 days</strong>.</p><p>Now your credit when we pulled it though, that&#8217;s typically good for 120.</p><p>So why the difference? Well, your bank statements and pay stubs and all that good stuff that we&#8217;ve collected, that&#8217;s generally good for 90 days before we got to refresh.</p><p>But even once we get under contract, we&#8217;re typically going to refresh it anyways.</p><p>So, the reason why we have it at 90-day windows, versus that 120, is to give you a little bit of buffer room just in case you&#8217;re going to be looking for homes.</p><p>If you get an under contract within that 90-day window, typically it takes time to close that home, and that <strong>can take anywhere from 20 to 40, 50 days to close</strong> on the home.</p><p>So, it gives us a little bit of wiggle room before having to re-run that credit.</p><p>Because if we get outside of that 120-day window from when we&#8217;ve run your credit, that&#8217;s where we got to do a re-pull again to check credit and make sure nothing major has changed on your credit report.</p><p>So, your pre-approval&#8217;s good for 90 days, typically.</p><p>It&#8217;s what you&#8217;re going to see in most instances, but there&#8217;s a little bit of extra buffer room there when it comes to having to re-pull your credit report from that initial pre-approval.</p><p>We really get about 120 just in case, but that&#8217;s what gives us room for when you&#8217;re under contract. 90-day pre-approval with the ability to refresh if needed.</p><p>My name&#8217;s Evan Kaufman, VA loan originator. Hope this helps you go out there and win at a home with <a href="https://wevett.com/va-loans/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">the VA Loan.</a> Take care.</p>								</div>
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